Hot Dogs at Harry's and Offal Chez Santa
Two places I enjoyed this week in Paris
Chez Santa — The Abats Social Club






Admission Requirements:
Sponsorship from no fewer than zero members in good standing
A penchant for offal, rustic cooking techniques from France and Italy, and wines of the vin de France appellation (or non-appellation)
Initiation Fee:
20 euros for the lunch menu (entrée, plat, or plat, dessert)
Dresscode:
Whatever the hell you have on (strictly enforced)
There’s no need to be embarrassed if these requirements intimidate you. That’s by design. But I implore you to rise to these standards so you can enjoy the…
Perks of Membership:
Walking into Chez Santa, 5 Rue René Boulanger, 75010 Paris, was like a breath of fresh air. There isn’t an ounce (or a gram) of pretension to be found in the place.
The Italian cheffe prepares a sampling of specialties from both her adopted land and her land of origin, and combines them however she damn well pleases. We particularly enjoyed the gelatinous fried veal trotter, the zingy mussels from Croisic in nduja cream, and a true tiramisu with hot espresso soaked into the biscuits beneath a heap of mascarpone.
A glass of still “blanc de noir” squeezed from cabernet franc paired perfectly with the warmth and good cheer.
Hot Dogs and Sidecars at Harry’s New York Bar


Harry’s is one of those places that, no matter how many tourists line up, can never lose it’s authenticity. It is an expat bar after all. And it’s one of the few places in Paris where I look forward to hearing the roaring voices of my compatriots. We get to sit in this cauldron of nostalgia, surrounded by dark wood and vintage college banners, and, for a brief moment, celebrate the better angels of our culture. More to come on Harry’s soon…
We enjoyed lots of sunshine on my “Left Bank Treasures” food tour this week! Plenty of spots are available for April and May! You can book here.
I’ll see you next week,
Max


